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Corbel Bookend

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I cut and glued up a cherry board last month for a bookend design I saw in a book by Frederick Wilbur. Now that the final finish is drying on my last project, I can finally get started on this.

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Current progress. Lots of weird angles have made me figure out ways to use the tools that I have...along with some bad tearing out that's made me frustrated! The toughest part is grounding out the leaves. I think it's time to buy a 2 or 3mm spoon bent tool.

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I have that book also and I love those curling acanthus leaves. That's a lot of background lowering and a small spoon bent will definitely make your life easier. Looking good so far and I look forward to seeing progress photos. I think you're going to love my acanthus leaf carving book ?

Thank you Mary, and I check weekly for an update on your book. LAP needs to hurry up and print it! I've been looking forward to adding your book to my reference library for a long time, as there aren't many acanthus books out there.

On the leaves in this carving, it's tough grounding and setting in, because I'm constantly grabbing a 3, a 5, a 7 and back and forth and so on. I hope it turns out symmetrical in the end, as I've never had to switch between so many gouges constantly.

In Wilbur's book, it looks like he uses background punches to finish the leaves. I read too many books, because there are 2 camps on background punches. Those who use them and like them, and those who say it takes away from the carving. Do you (and anyone else on the forum) use them to accent your carvings?

The book is still aiming for September (late September). It's taken a long time for them to design 350 pages of hundreds of drawings and illustrations. It's been quite an intense process.

I have used stippling as a background texturing in a few of the lessons (The celtic cross, the oak leaves and also the recent acanthus leaf bracket). I like this detail for particular carvings because it makes the background stand out differently from the carving - especially after putting a stain on it. It's also a great trick for making a rougher background appear more uniform (I'm convinced they have used this technique for this reason for many of the antique carvings also). It's a detail that I would definitely encourage you to try at some time in your carvings.

Hmm...make my rough backgrounds more uniform. Sold!

Kidding aside, I can see how making the background stand out on this carving would enhance the look. I grabbed some old steel to make a punch and I'll give it a shot. Or mallet pounding.

And 350 pages of details in your book sounds perfect. I truly cannot wait!

Started defining the volute and acanthus leaves...

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Pretty much done I feel with the sides. Just have to punch the background a few hundred times. Any suggestions/critiques?

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Looking very good! Nice flow of all the lines. Maybe some notch cuts on the little serrations of the leaves? (oh, I guess you have to read my acanthus book - hopefully out within a few months :). Ummm. trying to think of the best lesson where I show this detail - probably the Carving an Acanthus on a Bracket. This is the little cut that separates the small serrations from the leaf. This is small cut, but really creates a lot of dimension to the leaf.

I know exactly what you are talking about. I was curious why Wilbur didn't make any of those cuts on his example in the book. I made a couple other changes that were bothering me, and I'll make the change you suggested also. Much appreciated!

Another thing he doesn't do on his acanthus leaves are adding some v-tool highlights on the leaves. It's a pretty smooth, undetailed leaf. I've been debating adding those all afternoon.

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