Sapele Wood Plaque
Quote from Matthew Mizner on June 28, 2017, 10:40 pmJust gave up on this plaque I had been working on. The wood is Sapele and the finish is 2 coats of Teak Oil. Sapele was like carving stone, and it crumbles so easily cutting cross-grain. I started a larger project using Sapele to finish the board I picked up, and after that I don't think I'll touch that wood again!
Just gave up on this plaque I had been working on. The wood is Sapele and the finish is 2 coats of Teak Oil. Sapele was like carving stone, and it crumbles so easily cutting cross-grain. I started a larger project using Sapele to finish the board I picked up, and after that I don't think I'll touch that wood again!
Uploaded files:Quote from Autumn Doucet on June 28, 2017, 11:29 pmLearning to choose the right piece of wood is up there with learning how to sharpen. The wood I chose for the Art Nouveau panels in my post was - I thought - even grained Honduras mahogany. Turns out the grain switched direction every 1/4" or so; it has been a nightmare to carve. Live and learn, eh? Thanks for the tip about the sapele.
Learning to choose the right piece of wood is up there with learning how to sharpen. The wood I chose for the Art Nouveau panels in my post was - I thought - even grained Honduras mahogany. Turns out the grain switched direction every 1/4" or so; it has been a nightmare to carve. Live and learn, eh? Thanks for the tip about the sapele.
Quote from Deleted user on June 29, 2017, 2:05 amI finished two applique carvings with sapele. It is a frustrating wood because of switching grain direction and brittleness. However, I learned a lot by finishing the project and sticking with the wood. Even though I wouldn't care to carve it again, I'm not afraid of other woods now. So my current project is the rose on a book with beech. Almost every stroke requires a mallet because the wood is so tough. I think I'm getting a good lesson in finding out the material can be half the challenge, unless everything will be basswood.
I finished two applique carvings with sapele. It is a frustrating wood because of switching grain direction and brittleness. However, I learned a lot by finishing the project and sticking with the wood. Even though I wouldn't care to carve it again, I'm not afraid of other woods now. So my current project is the rose on a book with beech. Almost every stroke requires a mallet because the wood is so tough. I think I'm getting a good lesson in finding out the material can be half the challenge, unless everything will be basswood.
Quote from SmokyRick Crawford on June 29, 2017, 7:46 amWhat you have done looks amazing. I am still a beginner, working my way through the free lessons. With all the work you have put into this, it seems a shame to just stop working on it. Giving up on it just seems wrong somehow, unless it is so crumbled away that you can't save what is there because it won't clean up anymore (like there isn't enough wood left to finish the pattern.) I hope you won't just give up, but find a way to save it. Dig back to that beginner that wanted to learn so much.
What you have done looks amazing. I am still a beginner, working my way through the free lessons. With all the work you have put into this, it seems a shame to just stop working on it. Giving up on it just seems wrong somehow, unless it is so crumbled away that you can't save what is there because it won't clean up anymore (like there isn't enough wood left to finish the pattern.) I hope you won't just give up, but find a way to save it. Dig back to that beginner that wanted to learn so much.
Quote from MaryMay on June 29, 2017, 8:30 amSapele definitely can be challenging. But you did a great job Matthew! That is really beautiful and any issues with grain certainly don't show up. The thing about working with difficult woods - it stretches and challenges you, and each little cut you learn that much more.
Sapele definitely can be challenging. But you did a great job Matthew! That is really beautiful and any issues with grain certainly don't show up. The thing about working with difficult woods - it stretches and challenges you, and each little cut you learn that much more.
Quote from Matthew Mizner on June 30, 2017, 10:22 pmThank you all for the compliments. This was a challenge and worth the experience of giving Sapele a try; I'm glad I used it. And one of my current projects that I used the rest of the Sapele on is going a lot better with what I learned. 3 times the size and 3 times the blisters! I'll post a pic when I finish it.
Thank you all for the compliments. This was a challenge and worth the experience of giving Sapele a try; I'm glad I used it. And one of my current projects that I used the rest of the Sapele on is going a lot better with what I learned. 3 times the size and 3 times the blisters! I'll post a pic when I finish it.
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Quote from Bob Easton on July 6, 2017, 5:57 amThat's a good looking Acanthus scroll Matthew, despite being incomplete.
Yet another confirmation that Sapele is difficult to work with. So far, my work with Sapele has been more shallow than yours, but I have become familiar with the crumbling.
If ever there was a time for gentle slicing cuts, this is the wood that needs them.
That's a good looking Acanthus scroll Matthew, despite being incomplete.
Yet another confirmation that Sapele is difficult to work with. So far, my work with Sapele has been more shallow than yours, but I have become familiar with the crumbling.
If ever there was a time for gentle slicing cuts, this is the wood that needs them.
Quote from MaryMay on July 6, 2017, 8:43 pmMatthew, I think you are going to enjoy and hopefully gain a lot of information from the latest lesson (first episode added yesterday) on Carving the Rococo Acanthus Leaf Frieze. A lot of similarities to the image you will be carving. Time to get those fingerless gloves out...
Matthew, I think you are going to enjoy and hopefully gain a lot of information from the latest lesson (first episode added yesterday) on Carving the Rococo Acanthus Leaf Frieze. A lot of similarities to the image you will be carving. Time to get those fingerless gloves out...
Quote from Matthew Mizner on July 6, 2017, 10:47 pmThank you Mary...definitely some good similarities between both of them. I'd like to see what your technique, on what I assume is your finishing use with a v-tool, for the ends of the acanthus leaves. I feel like I give it a Bob Ross happy v-tool line here and there sometimes and can always use some clarity. Speaking of, if I could find a book on acanthus carving somewhere...............!
Thank you Mary...definitely some good similarities between both of them. I'd like to see what your technique, on what I assume is your finishing use with a v-tool, for the ends of the acanthus leaves. I feel like I give it a Bob Ross happy v-tool line here and there sometimes and can always use some clarity. Speaking of, if I could find a book on acanthus carving somewhere...............!
Quote from MaryMay on July 9, 2017, 3:33 pmThe last episode of the acanthus frieze lesson shows how to make the texturing details with a #11, 2mm and #11, 3mm. Requires a lot of control to keep the curve in those cuts.
I spoke with Christopher Schwarz yesterday at the Lie- Nielsen open house and he is still aiming for the acanthus book to be out in September. Yeah!
The last episode of the acanthus frieze lesson shows how to make the texturing details with a #11, 2mm and #11, 3mm. Requires a lot of control to keep the curve in those cuts.
I spoke with Christopher Schwarz yesterday at the Lie- Nielsen open house and he is still aiming for the acanthus book to be out in September. Yeah!