• From Rick Raley on Carving a Tudor Rose

    I'm an old tool junkie. If I'm not on a tight deadline - I'll often set aside my "new" sets (under 50 years old) and get out my antiques - of which I have quite a few - mostly Addis & Herring Bros. - just to keep in "touch" with them. I buy and sell quite a bit and it's always fun to find a gem that you know you'll cherish forever!

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    2014/10/31 at 7:14 pm
  • From Rick Raley on Transferring Designs to Wood - Beginner Lesson #9

    Be careful! lacquer thinner is one of the nastiest solvents out there. It contains Benzene & Toluene - both known for birth defects & cancer. I use acetone (nail polish remover) which is much less toxic and works pretty well. Regardless of what you use - wear protection and good ventilation or a mask!

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    2014/10/31 at 6:52 pm
    • From Bob Easton on Transferring Designs to Wood - Beginner Lesson #9

      Very good point Rick! Thanks for adding it.

      Mary is currently at a place with very limited connectivity but says she forgot to add the solvents warning she usually makes and will add it to the video next week.

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      2014/11/01 at 6:22 am
  • From Pam Niedermayer on Carving a Large Sunburst - Episode 2

    Are the grain changes due only to the poplar? Would there be such regular grain changes if you were carving in walnut or mahogany?

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    2014/10/31 at 12:23 am
    • From Bob Easton on Carving a Large Sunburst - Episode 2

      Hi Pam, Bob Easton chiming in here because I know that Mary is currently at a place where connectivity and reception are poor. She might come along later and add more comments.

      All woods have grain changes that we need to deal with. The difficulties are in how fine the grain, how tight the grain is, how likely the grain is to split, and how straight the grain is.

      For example, basswood is very fine grained and usually quite straight. That makes it perfect for learning and for a lot of finished artworks.

      Mahogany and walnut have coarser grains than basswood and are harder. They endure better and we like their colors better. Yet, they "behave" well because they have grown slowly, producing tight grain that has almost even density between layers. That leads to clean cutting as long as one "stays with the grain." (Remember the donut lesson.) They are also fairly straight grained. We could dig deeper into differences of individual types of mahogany, i.e. Hoduran -vs- African, but let's leave that for another day. You might watch the Newport Shell videos and see how Mary deals with grain problems even in mahogany, one of our prized woods.

      Poplar, while still technically a hardwood, is a different story. It grows faster, leaving alternating soft and hard layers that tend to split more easily. And when it starts to split or break, it is stringy and brittle, not the things that woodcarvers like. 🙂 Add to the tendency to split the variability that comes with fast growing trees with a lot of limbs and we get a lot more curve and sweep in the grain, sometimes even swirl like patterns. It all adds up to make poplar tough to carve. But sometimes the carver doesn't have a lot of choice when working with someone else who makes the decisions about material. Poplar is plenty durable for many purposes, but doesn't finish well with stain or varnish, and we most often find it used for things that will be painted. It's cost is much less than the finer woods, hence the tendency to use it where natural color finish is not critical.

      I know. Long answer. Yet, the point is that while changing grain direction is a factor, so too is how tight and coherent the grain structure is.

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      2014/10/31 at 7:20 am
      • From Bob Easton on Carving a Large Sunburst - Episode 2

        A exercise for learning about grain...
        Select a design that you are confident about carving, maybe a simple flower, certainly something with a rosette or radial pattern. Make it something relatively small that is carved in hours, not days.

        Next acquire various woods and repeat the carving in each. They don't have to be exotic, pristine or new woods; just practice pieces. Try the design first in basswood. Then carve it again in walnut, mahogany, pine, poplar and oak.

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        2014/10/31 at 7:27 am
        • From Mary May on Carving a Large Sunburst - Episode 2

          Hi Pam and Bob.

          Bob, thanks for the thorough explanation about wood grain and your suggestion of testing woods is a great idea. Makes me think this might be a good video lesson for me to show. The difficulty would be trying to show the differences in video. You almost have to feel the difference yourself with tools in your hand.

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          2014/11/01 at 10:26 pm
  • From francine magnan on Transferring Designs to Wood - Beginner Lesson #9

    video just stops after a few seconds!!!

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    2014/10/29 at 9:51 pm
  • From mark McMahon on Sharpening a Curved Gouge - Beginner Lesson #4

    Thanks I'm more of a visual learner working the off shift and every other weekend and holiday and doing other needed things for wife in free time .So not much chance to take classes . Vidio's help . Still hit and miss no super sharp edge yet . So I go back and look over and over and try some more .
    How about sharing a fish tail vidio could have sworn you had one made . Same as for the curved gouge ?

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    2014/10/26 at 5:36 pm
    • From Mary May on Sharpening a Curved Gouge - Beginner Lesson #4

      Mark,
      Glad you're enjoying the videos. I also am a visual learner - that's probably why I started these videos - it's how I understand.

      The process of sharpening is exactly the same for a fishtail. Just make sure you don't twist the tool too much, or those nice sharp corners of the fishtail will be rounded over.

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      2014/10/28 at 9:19 pm