Mary
I am learning so much from you! Thanks for such insightful instruction. My question has a rather obvious answer but I would find your feedback helpful. I enjoy working with figured woods where appropriate. To avoid problems should I reduce my depth of cut when working with woods like curly maple or walnut burl or is this a battle I don't even want to fight?
Hi Rob,
You do like a challenge! Making deep cuts certainly can add to the challenge. I would suggest several things: make sure the tools are razor sharp - try to cut across the grain when you can - make a definite slicing or shaving cut (don't just force the tool straight through) - and lastly, if all else fails, use a dremel tool (hate the dust and reminds me of going to the dentist) 🙂
Or... leave the figured wood to woodturners and burl veneers. Carving in nice straight grained wood is much more predictable and enjoyable.
Great videos as usual Mary. You mentioned a while back something about discussions with Lie-Nielsen tools regarding single bevel fishtail chisels. Have you made any headway? These chisels are very hard to find. For some reason all the manufacturers make only the double bevel models; for example the Chris Pye lettering chisels offered at LN are double bevel. I was able to regrind a Stubai fishtail to single bevel but it would be nice to skip the regrind/waste of metal step.
Ditto ... on both the video and the tools. Yet another sweet little shell!
Single bevel fishtail carving chisels are very rare. I recently reground an Ashley Iles double bevel fishtail to single bevel. It works easier, but I lost a good bit of width in the process ... not much flare to the tail now. ;-{
It has been difficult to find a supplier of a single-bevel fishtail flat chisel. I know that Dastra has them, but it is sometimes difficult to order them. The Aurious tools (Chris Pye tools) sent me a prototype of a wonderful single bevel fishtail chisel, but they are still in the process of getting the manufacturing of these sorted out. I also have a Henry Taylor single-bevel flat, but can't remember if I bought it used or new. That might be another option that I haven't checked into.
The difficulty of reshaping a double bevel to a single bevel is as Bob mentioned - makes the fishtail a lot smaller. You also need to be aware that some tool makers only temper the end of the tools, and if it is ground down, you may take it past the temper and might need to re-temper the blade.
Here's a quick tip on overcoming color differences from carving and sanding. Splash the piece with some denatured alcohol. It will temporarily even out the differences, and then will evaporate away with no lasting effect. It's also good for removing pencil lines. 🙂
I didn't realize that about pencil lines. Those are always irritating things to remove (thus the "eraser" tool). I wonder if this also removes carbon paper and transfer paper marks? I'll have to experiment.
Sometimes when I read about all your training in Greece, England, Malaysia and the US in wood and stone I am in awe of your commitment and your background. Then in a lesson like this I get to see you work quickly (even though teaching) and produce repetitive work beautifully, its obvious your background has honed you into a experienced, skilled, carver.
Your video makes me want to try it , but I am not sure about the whole house.
Hi Robert,
I usually get to hand off my carving projects to the furnituremaker and they are responsible for that part, so there may be others who can add their thoughts. The question I guess is this... do you want to keep it historically accurate, or do you just simply want to get it attached to the furniture? Historically accurate often requires using hide glue and putting a minimal amount of glue onto the back of the carvings (so it doesn't ooze past the carving) and clamping it tightly. Here is the not-so-historically correct process - put regular wood glue on the back of the carving (again a minimal amount so as not to have to clean up the edges), take tiny pin nails and nail in strategic areas that are not visible (or simply clamp the carving). This is quite often done on architectural pieces, such as fireplace mantels.
It is also a good idea to keep the grain of both carving and the base wood going in the same direction.
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