Thank you for your spots on the wood wrights shop, and web page....I am learning how to carve on the flintlock rifles I build, and you have helped.
One of the biggest problems is how to hold the stock securely, and the second is keeping those tools sharp!
I just wish for the day when I can do this work full-time~most like when I retire.....
Then begins my second career, and first love....making beautiful 1770's rifles like the old masters!
Marc N.
Hi Marc,
I've seen some beautiful carvings on flintlock rifles. And there are some great websites out there for scroll and acanthus leaf designs. Is it possible to leave a block of wood on either end of the wood so you can clamp securely? I don't know the process of building a rifle, so I am not sure at what stage your would be carving. Then whey you are finished carving, cut the blocks off and shape the rest of it.
Very small tools - lots of 1, 2 and 3mm.
I have a friend out of Pickens, SC who makes these. If you want his information, I can get it to you.
Mary, How about a "Massachusetts" style claw foot, with its swept back side toes and crowded upper knuckles. I realize you have done vids on the Philly style foot, as have others; however, I could not find any published instruction anywhere on the MA claw foot. I've done some with reasonable results but have never duplicated the style dead on. I find them much more challenging - relative to a generic Philly foot -then one might expect. Thank you. Bruce
Hi Bruce,
Yes, the difficulty with this foot is that the claws are not at nice, convenient equal intervals. The side talons are swept back as you say. I have not carved many of these, but will put this on my list. I will need a good reference to go by to make sure it is accurate.
Mary I would appreciate a video lesson on carving a trifid foot. I have two projects started from MASW classes and we (or I) never got to that point on the project and now I am, This may be simple but I am having a hard time with it. Thank you.
Very nice, Mary. Keeping with Bob's theme zooming straight over head, i.e. looking over the work (as you are seeing it) would also provide for a visual perspective on when you were discussing how to be careful with the thickness of the stems carrying the actual grain. At first when you were working the v-chisel on the grain I didn't understand until you moved in closer with the camera.
Would you also please just comment on what the difference is, if any, between a #1, 14mm flat chisel and a 1/2" bench or bevel-edged chisel?
If you were to not lower the background, then would that be similar to chip carving without using a knife?
Mary, I enjoyed your letter carving instruction and find your method to be cleaner and more conducive to a beginner than the one demonstrated by TJ McDermott on Fine Woodworking. You have a great manner and teaching style (hopefully I might be able to take a in-person class some day).
I do have a few questions. What was the wood you used to carve both letters and do you generally orient the wood in the grain direction of east/west rather than north/south? After completing the straight sides you switched to the outside curves. Is that always the best way to start or could you go right to the inside first?
Working the outside curve you employed a slicing approach utilizing a curved gouge and did not seem to pay attention to grain direction. While with the inside curve working with a straight chisel (gouge) you very much were aware of grain direction as pointed out during the “donut” basic exercise. Could you ever just use one technique for both?
You mentioned the fact that you were using a “flat” chisel on the bottom section of the R, was it the #1 14mm or does it matter?
Do you ever suggest sanding of your work as the final step?
Hi Bob,
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoy the process I use.
The wood I used in the videos is basswood, and generally I do have the grain horizontal (east/west) mainly because signs work better with letters going along a board.
I would have to sit and carve a letter to honestly answer the question of why I carve the outside of the curve first. As I think through the process, it removes quite a bit of the bulk of the wood and then it is sort of a "clean-up" with the flat chisel on the inside of the curve. My suggestion is to try both ways and it may turn out that it really doesn't matter which is carved first.
The slicing cut from the curved gouge does allow me to have more control with the grain, so the direction is not so critical. Until you get the technique of the slicing cut, it's best to make sure those cuts are going in the correct grain direction. But the cuts with the straight chisel definitely need to be in the correct grain direction - you will notice it very quickly if you are going against the grain on these cuts.
Yes, that was a #1, 14mm, but it really doesn't matter. I am guessing you are referring to the long straight sections of the letters. You can use the largest flat chisel that is comfortable to work with.
Yes, sanding will create a nice final surface. Just make sure the outside sharp edges don't get softened.
From Marc N. on Workshop Tour - Beginner Lesson #16
Go to comment2014/02/02 at 6:30 pm
From Mary May on Workshop Tour - Beginner Lesson #16
Go to comment2014/02/13 at 8:08 am
From Bruce Leonard on What videos would you like to see?
Go to comment2014/02/01 at 8:45 am
From Mary May on What videos would you like to see?
Go to comment2014/02/01 at 10:19 pm
From David Stilwell on What videos would you like to see?
Go to comment2014/01/26 at 9:02 pm
From Mary May on What videos would you like to see?
Go to comment2014/02/01 at 10:16 pm
From Bob Wilkinson on Carving a Duncan Phyfe Styled Wheat & Ribbon Design - Episode 1
Go to comment2014/01/24 at 6:47 pm
From Bob Wilkinson on Carving Traditional Serif Lettering in Capitals
Go to comment2014/01/15 at 1:50 pm
From Mary May on Carving Traditional Serif Lettering in Capitals
Go to comment2014/01/15 at 7:48 pm