Mary, did you use basically the #14 single bevel flat fishtail chisel on this project - "Carving a Face"? You make it look so easy in reducing the amount of wood.
Hi Ralph,
I used the #7, 14mm for most of the roughing out. A flat chisel would most likely dig in too much at that point in the carving, and probably wouldn't remove the amount of wood I need.
Would you let us know when you stop to sharpen/exchange gouges (not for size or shape change but for a clean edge)? For example, in this video you use the 7/14 nearly the whole hour plus lesson, did you sharpen/strop/exchange at all during the video. Also, if you were using mahogany or cherry, how would often would you need to "re-edge"? (I won't even ask about maple or oak).
Hi Dan,
Believe it or not, that #7, 14mm stands up for a long time. I have used that to rough out several carvings (and one was mahogany), and never had to re-sharpen it - including this one. I don't have an angle gauge, but I believe this gouge is closer to 24 or 25% angle rather than the 22 to 23% that is often recommended. It's a slight difference, but causes the blade to be less fragile. I stropped it several times, but never put it on a stone. But I think it's time now 🙂
Mary
Is the #1, 14mm beveled on both edges of tool? And if yes, is there a plus or minus to using it in place of or substitute for #1, 14mm flat chisel?
Thanks
bob
Hello Bob,
I'm going to copy a recent "tips and tricks" I had in my latest newsletter regarding flat chisels. I prefer single bevel flat chisels for the following reason (you can find a single-bevel, fishtail in Two Cherry brand here,
"The reason I prefer a single bevel is that it gives me the most flexibility as I carve. I have a choice to either carve with the bevel side up or down, and each technique offers different benefits in a variety of situations. It's as if this one chisel can be used 2 completely different ways. There are times when using the bevel side down allows me to lift the tool off the wood higher. There are times where I want to make sure a cut is perfectly straight and not wanting the bevel in the way. Letter carving is especially beneficial to use the bevel side against the wood, as cutting with the bevel side up can cause the cuts to dive into the letter too deeply. The bottom line is that having a single-bevel chisel gives me two different tools in one. I often turn the tool back and forth, using bevel up or bevel down as I carve to adjust for different needs."
From Dave on Carving a Face - Episode 2
Go to comment2017/05/12 at 8:01 am
From Mary May on Carving a Face - Episode 2
Go to comment2017/05/16 at 1:29 pm
From Ralph Scheffler on Carving a Face
Go to comment2017/05/11 at 10:11 am
From Mary May on Carving a Face
Go to comment2017/05/16 at 1:28 pm
From Dan Summerhays on Carving a Face - Episode 1
Go to comment2017/05/07 at 11:45 am
From Mary May on Carving a Face - Episode 1
Go to comment2017/05/07 at 10:21 pm
From Bob Wilkinson on Carving a "Chip Carved" Star
Go to comment2017/05/06 at 4:41 pm
From Mary May on Carving a "Chip Carved" Star
Go to comment2017/05/06 at 10:16 pm
From georges boujakly on Carving a Face - Episode 1
Go to comment2017/05/05 at 5:48 pm
From Mary May on Carving a Face - Episode 1
Go to comment2017/05/06 at 10:10 pm