Thank you for the great lesson!
For the last year I have been using locally made tools in my country (Vietnam) which costs $7 for a set of 30!!! tools. They are made from truck springs, came without handles, unsharpened and the profiles are all over the places. I made a few reliefs with them but it took a lot of work, so now I am thinking of graduating to better tools that would last a life time. I have a two cherries chip carving knife, so I am aware of the vast difference between premium and cheap tools.
However, my budget is limited and right now I can only afford 5 tools instead of 6. I am thinking of purchasing the following gouges:
- #3 6mm fishtail
- #3 12mm straight gouge
- #5 8mm fishtail
- #7 14mm straight gouge
- #12 6mm V-tool
What do you think about this list? Will it do for me for the next few years? Thank you very much.
That set would be a great set to start with. The truck springs sound very interesting. I bet they hold a good edge.
Good luck and happy carving!
First of all thanks for the very understandable videos and information on your website.
I am an amateur wood turner considering relief carving for decoration on some turnings.Sharpening is a challenge for me. I followed your link to Chipping Away which offers a modified belt sander and various belts for carving tool sharpening. I think this would be a good system for sharpening turning tools, but not so sure about carving tools. Any opinions?
Will likely upgrade from freeloading member once I get get started. Please keep up the good work.
Thanks! I have that sharpening system from Chipping Away, and it is very good. I am partial to hand sharpening - just because that is what I am comfortable with. I always find that any machine I try rounds the bevel slightly. I haven't figured out how to prevent this. What I do use that system for is if I am carving on a wood that dulls my chisels a lot. I touch it up on the belt about every 5 minutes. But when I'm finished with that project I sharpen my tools again on a stone to flatten any rounded bevel.
Hello Mary and Cyndi:
Just wanted to point out that the sort of bowls that Jogge Sundqvist and Peter Follansbee make are made from green wood. I have not seen dramatic shape changes upon drying with those that I have made. Carving is cleaner when the wood is allowed to dry out a bit. Also, there is relatively less end grain on these kinds of bowls so carving is much easier. The pattern that Mary shows would work well on this type of bowl. I will try it the next time I get a good log..
Thanks! I plan on playing with more of these down the road.
In the written instructions you refer to a #3, 12mm in several places. The tool list does not show a #3, 12 - is that supposed to be a #3, 14 as shown in the tool list?
Thanks for the great lessons!!
I was not aware of this. The #3, 12mm or #3, 14mm can be interchanged easily. I typically use the #3, 14mm, so if you were to choose one or the other, I would choose that one.
Mary where can I get the template to trace?
When you go to watch the full lesson, look under the video. There is a link to the template.
Recent Comments Administrator 2017-11-30T01:05:07+00:00