For the last year I have been using locally made tools in my country (Vietnam) which costs $7 for a set of 30!!! tools. They are made from truck springs, came without handles, unsharpened and the profiles are all over the places. I made a few reliefs with them but it took a lot of work, so now I am thinking of graduating to better tools that would last a life time. I have a two cherries chip carving knife, so I am aware of the vast difference between premium and cheap tools.
However, my budget is limited and right now I can only afford 5 tools instead of 6. I am thinking of purchasing the following gouges: - #3 6mm fishtail - #3 12mm straight gouge - #5 8mm fishtail - #7 14mm straight gouge - #12 6mm V-tool
What do you think about this list? Will it do for me for the next few years? Thank you very much.
Hi, Mary. First of all thanks for the very understandable videos and information on your website. I am an amateur wood turner considering relief carving for decoration on some turnings.Sharpening is a challenge for me. I followed your link to Chipping Away which offers a modified belt sander and various belts for carving tool sharpening. I think this would be a good system for sharpening turning tools, but not so sure about carving tools. Any opinions? Will likely upgrade from freeloading member once I get get started. Please keep up the good work.
Hi Tom, Thanks! I have that sharpening system from Chipping Away, and it is very good. I am partial to hand sharpening - just because that is what I am comfortable with. I always find that any machine I try rounds the bevel slightly. I haven't figured out how to prevent this. What I do use that system for is if I am carving on a wood that dulls my chisels a lot. I touch it up on the belt about every 5 minutes. But when I'm finished with that project I sharpen my tools again on a stone to flatten any rounded bevel.
Hello Mary and Cyndi: Just wanted to point out that the sort of bowls that Jogge Sundqvist and Peter Follansbee make are made from green wood. I have not seen dramatic shape changes upon drying with those that I have made. Carving is cleaner when the wood is allowed to dry out a bit. Also, there is relatively less end grain on these kinds of bowls so carving is much easier. The pattern that Mary shows would work well on this type of bowl. I will try it the next time I get a good log..
In the written instructions you refer to a #3, 12mm in several places. The tool list does not show a #3, 12 - is that supposed to be a #3, 14 as shown in the tool list?
Hi Steve, I was not aware of this. The #3, 12mm or #3, 14mm can be interchanged easily. I typically use the #3, 14mm, so if you were to choose one or the other, I would choose that one.
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