Recent Comments

Recent Comments 2017-11-30T01:05:07+00:00
  • From BaoN on All About Gouges - Beginner Lesson #3

    Dear Mary,

    Thank you for the great lesson!

    For the last year I have been using locally made tools in my country (Vietnam) which costs $7 for a set of 30!!! tools. They are made from truck springs, came without handles, unsharpened and the profiles are all over the places. I made a few reliefs with them but it took a lot of work, so now I am thinking of graduating to better tools that would last a life time. I have a two cherries chip carving knife, so I am aware of the vast difference between premium and cheap tools.

    However, my budget is limited and right now I can only afford 5 tools instead of 6. I am thinking of purchasing the following gouges:
    - #3 6mm fishtail
    - #3 12mm straight gouge
    - #5 8mm fishtail
    - #7 14mm straight gouge
    - #12 6mm V-tool

    What do you think about this list? Will it do for me for the next few years? Thank you very much.

    Regards,

    Go to comment
    2019/01/05 at 4:19 am
  • From Tom Palmer on Sharpening a Curved Gouge - Beginner Lesson #4

    Hi, Mary.
    First of all thanks for the very understandable videos and information on your website.
    I am an amateur wood turner considering relief carving for decoration on some turnings.Sharpening is a challenge for me. I followed your link to Chipping Away which offers a modified belt sander and various belts for carving tool sharpening. I think this would be a good system for sharpening turning tools, but not so sure about carving tools. Any opinions?
    Will likely upgrade from freeloading member once I get get started. Please keep up the good work.

    Go to comment
    2019/01/02 at 4:33 pm
    • From MaryMay on Sharpening a Curved Gouge - Beginner Lesson #4

      Hi Tom,
      Thanks! I have that sharpening system from Chipping Away, and it is very good. I am partial to hand sharpening - just because that is what I am comfortable with. I always find that any machine I try rounds the bevel slightly. I haven't figured out how to prevent this. What I do use that system for is if I am carving on a wood that dulls my chisels a lot. I touch it up on the belt about every 5 minutes. But when I'm finished with that project I sharpen my tools again on a stone to flatten any rounded bevel.

      Go to comment
      2019/01/10 at 9:32 am
  • From Joseph Chalovich on Carving an Art Nouveau Bowl - Episode 1

    Hello Mary and Cyndi:
    Just wanted to point out that the sort of bowls that Jogge Sundqvist and Peter Follansbee make are made from green wood. I have not seen dramatic shape changes upon drying with those that I have made. Carving is cleaner when the wood is allowed to dry out a bit. Also, there is relatively less end grain on these kinds of bowls so carving is much easier. The pattern that Mary shows would work well on this type of bowl. I will try it the next time I get a good log..

    Go to comment
    2018/12/21 at 4:22 pm
  • From Steve LaBoon on Carving a Camellia Flower - Beginner Lesson #8 - Episode 1

    Hi Mary,

    In the written instructions you refer to a #3, 12mm in several places. The tool list does not show a #3, 12 - is that supposed to be a #3, 14 as shown in the tool list?

    Thanks for the great lessons!!

    Go to comment
    2018/12/21 at 3:00 pm
  • From Frank Withers on Carving a Basic Flower - Beginner Lesson #7

    Mary where can I get the template to trace?

    Go to comment
    2018/12/21 at 1:44 pm