What is the green material attached to the v-shaped wedge for stropping?
Also, is it only an Arkansas stone that can be used to remove the wire burr or is a whetstone or similar stone ok?
I honestly don't know. It has been in my shop for years and it is a huge block. Just find some compound that is used on a buffing wheel. Really anything will work. They come in all sorts of colors depending on the brand. Anything that is meant to polish will work. For the slip stone, the Arkansas stones are the most common and also the most durable. I have seen water slip stones, but they become misshapen quickly. Also there are some slip stones out there that are very rough. The hard Arkansas stones (or harder) are fine enough to not rough up the inside of the gouge. If you see scratch marks, it's too rough. Hope this helps!
Enjoyed the lesson,didnt quite get the depth.I collected about 15 board feet of black walnut from a lumber mill but the pieces were 21/2 inches on one side down to 1/2 on the other.Love carving black walnut though
I love carving walnut also. It is becoming my favorite, after mahogany has become sort of a mystery wood as to what quality you will get.
From Tool Sweepson
I checked the web and found Gary Laroff of Portland, Oregon in February 2006 researched the origin of numbering system and stamping of sweep numbers. He concluded it began around 1870 . Here's a link to the article, if you're interested, http://swingleydev.com/ot/get/157681/thread/. The earliest numbering system chart Laroff found is from 1870 and is from Pawson & Brailsford, Sheffield. Ward & Payne Co. who sold edge tools world wide at the time needed a way to communicate size, sweep, etc in their catalog and are the first known company to stamp the number(s) on their tools beginning around 1870.
From Tool Sweepson
Thanks! I'll look into that.
Have you done much carving in walnut or cherry? If so, what is the degree of difficulty? Thanks.
I love carving in walnut. Cherry is nice, but I prefer walnut. Both are very hard woods, and your tools need to be very sharp. They do tend to get "slippery" and the tools can easily go farther than what you want. A mallet will probably be necessary for some of the rough wood removal. Enjoy!
Mary, Thank you for posting this set of videos. It appears the person who did the original work rounded over the bottom edge. Is this something you would do before or after carving the top side.
One other question, could you use double stick tape to tape the piece to an octagon shaped piece of plywood to help securing the piece while you carved? Thank you for all the work you've done with these videos.
I'm glad you are enjoying the videos.
I'm not sure if it matters when the rounding over the bottom edge happens, but it worked fine as I did it. By rounding it first, it seamlessly flows into the carved area. However, if you carve the back side after the carved edge, the little notch could be done at the same time. That way you don't have to keep turning it front and back. So... either way works.
Re - double sided tape - If the table top is flat enough, double-sided tape would work perfectly. But my concern would be any slight warp from such a large piece would not allow it to hold well.