• From Lawrence Kerr on Starting to Carve - Beginner Lesson #2

    Thank you both. I appreciate the guidance

    Go to comment
    2015/12/07 at 9:02 pm
  • From Mark Elder on Carving a Christmas Star

    Hello Mary
    What is the cost of your lessons? I first saw you on Roy Underhill's show. It would be nice if you had a program of your own on PBS.
    Thank You
    Merry Christmas

    Go to comment
    2015/12/07 at 9:04 am
  • From Dane Johnson on Preparing to Carve - Beginner Lesson #1

    Mary,

    Thanks so much for the videos, I am finally putting my gouges to good use but still have a long way to go 😉

    A few suggestions:

    To protect your project from clamps, holdfasts etc. use a pad that you would put on the bottom of a chair leg to protect hardwood floors. They are self-adhesive thick and dense felt.

    Before gluing backer-to-paper-to-project... drill some holes in the backer, then you can drip some water through the holes to facilitate separating them.

    As an alternative to using 2-sided tape, try the 3M "command" strips. They are sold as refills for the removable wall hangers. Make sure to leave the pull-tab exposed, then pull the tab to release the project. They probably wont hold up to a much mallet work.

    Regards,
    Dane

    Go to comment
    2015/12/03 at 10:32 pm
  • From Bob Easton on Carving a Christmas Star

    Not only a great Christmas ornament, this star is the symbol for the great state of Texas! 🙂 ... and lots of other places. So, there are many reasons for having a few stars like this. Maybe also as gifts to people who are "stars."

    Your order of steps was something missing when I carved stars like this some time ago. Your order of steps is definitely much easier than the order I used. Thanks!

    Go to comment
    2015/12/03 at 8:32 am
    • From Mary May on Carving a Christmas Star

      Thanks Bob! Carve several of them, and by the 3rd or 4th, you can almost carve them blind-folded (but I wouldn't recommend it).

      Go to comment
      2015/12/03 at 9:36 am
  • From Lukasz Budzynski on Sharpening a V-Chisel - Beginner Lesson #5

    Hello Mary!

    As this is my first question, I'd like to say: Hi! and thanks for the great job 🙂 I'm waiting for the tools listed in the "Donut", so I can accomplish that task and go on with the next lessons. I like your videos a lot, the way you're hosting, the scope of information and the techniques You present.

    I have a question about the sharpening process. You say, that it may take around 10-15 minutes to get to the wire edge with the 8000 grit stone. Why don't You use the 1200 or something intermediate, to expedite the task?

    I also would like to ask, what is the "endurance" of a sharpening. If it takes 25 minutes to sharpen one tool...for how long can You use it (if it's possible to assess ;)).

    Kindest regards,
    Lukasz.

    Go to comment
    2015/12/02 at 2:19 pm
    • From Mary May on Sharpening a V-Chisel - Beginner Lesson #5

      Hello Lukasz,
      If you look at the "Sharpening a Curved Gouge" lesson, I do mention that I use the 1200 if I have more metal to remove, and then move to the 8000 for more of a final sharpening. I do this quite often if it just takes too long with the 8000.

      The other question of "endurance" is always difficult to answer because it depends on so many things - type of wood you are using, how you are carving (mallet or just pushing), bevel angle of tool (how fragile is the edges?), etc. On average if you use a tool for a full day, you would certainly want to put in on a strop several times during the day, and possibly put it on an 8000 grit stone. If you can actually feel a rough edge, then put it to the 1200 first, get the wire edge, and then finish with an 8000 grit.

      Hope this helps!

      Go to comment
      2015/12/09 at 8:31 pm