• From John Braga on Carving a Violin Scroll - Episode 1

    An interesting and challenging lesson, although I think a violin maker would set about the carving very differently (perhaps a maker would care to comment?), and of course he/she would use sycamore or maple.

    A definitive article on making a violin scroll is found in Ed Heron-Allen's book "Violin making as it was and is", published in 1884 and still in print! See pp 269-281.

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    2014/10/16 at 4:41 pm
    • From Bob Easton on Carving a Violin Scroll - Episode 1

      Yes John, you are right about making an actual violin, at least for the material. The common material for the neck is hard maple ... and many violin makers do a lot more sawing to rough-in the shape.

      An interesting on-line abstraction is here.

      On the other hand, it is a very interesting project in demonstrating how much depth and convolution is involved in this very familiar object. That's why I think it a challenging project; to learn to see how much more depth there is than we initially perceive.

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      2014/10/16 at 5:17 pm
      • From Mary May on Carving a Violin Scroll - Episode 1

        It's always risky carving something that is so traditional and has a historical technique that has been passed down from master violin makers over hundreds of years. This project was a sort of challenge for me to see how I would carve this beautiful design - in the techniques that I know as a traditional woodcarver. Take it as just that. And yes, Bob, it was definitely surprising how deep this is carved to achieve that beautiful flowing scroll effect.

        The reason I used mahogany was simply because it was what I had available at the time.

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        2014/10/17 at 8:54 am
    • From Mary May on Carving a Violin Scroll - Episode 1

      Oh, I'm SURE you are correct. In fact, researching some of the information on the internet, I saw one person using a small hand saw around the scroll to remove the bulk of the wood. Many ways... and I went at it in the direction I understand - carving gouges! I would love to hear of other techniques people have used - especially traditional violin makers.

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      2014/10/16 at 4:55 pm
  • From Cecilio Lecusay on What videos would you like to see?

    Hi Mary, I know it is in your list to teach how to make a trifid foot cabriole leg, but I am not sure what is the position in your list, can it be at the end of the list?, perhaps, I am anxious to learn this type of construction.

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    2014/10/16 at 9:59 am
  • From Frank Strazza on What videos would you like to see?

    Hi Mary,

    I might have to carve a piecrust table, do you have any videos on this or do you plan on putting any out?

    Thanks

    Frank

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    2014/10/16 at 9:51 am
  • From David Piazzo on Preparing to Carve - Beginner Lesson #1

    Another wonderful leaning session. Love the idea about the V grooved 2x4s for holding odd shapes. And your tips on gluing with newspaper in-between. Your 20 years of experience is priceless.
    I built my work bench with an english screw vise similar to yours. In addition to my metal dogs, I have wooden bench dogs made of oak that I use to hold wood I don't want to slip. And of course oak won't hurt my new favorite toys from Pfeil and Sorby. You have to be as careful about not marring your work piece with the wood dogs as the oak is harder than most of what I clamp, but wood dogs to wood art is a nice secure clamp.

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    2014/10/13 at 9:20 pm
    • From Mary May on Preparing to Carve - Beginner Lesson #1

      Hi David,
      Thanks! I've been using the double-sided tape a lot more recently for holding the wood down to a temporary backer board. It is really more for very fragile pieces of carving. The glue and newspapaer method is great for more sturdier carvings without fragile pieces. Ultimately, being creative and flexible with the holding techniques is the answer.

      Several months ago Bob Easton, who is the mastermind behind this web site, and also a great woodworker, made me some oak bench dogs (check out my blog post). I use these almost exclusively when I am carving. The wooden ones mar much less than the metal ones.

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      2014/10/14 at 9:40 am
  • From Rod Egnash on Carving a Concave Newport Shell - Episode 3

    Sorry, I meant to say they don't list ANY #10 sweep

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    2014/10/13 at 12:27 am
    • From Mary May on Carving a Concave Newport Shell - Episode 3

      You could probably use a #9 in place of the #10. It won't be as curved, but should work. Another option, and probably better, is to use a #11, 4mm or 5mm. If you use anything that is less curved (less than a #9), you won't be able to get the definition that is needed for that particular area.

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      2014/10/13 at 12:22 pm