Hello Mary, thank you very much for this very detailed video.
I've been very busy with laurels the last months. One of the variations of this moulding is the one explained by Frederick Wilbur in his book on Carving Architectural Detail in Wood. The one I refer to is:
(https://www.frederickwilbur-woodcarver.com/images/stories/frames/frames12.gif) and I'd appreciate, if it is no to much to ask, if you could give me some idea of how to take on the berries there. I've broken more than one and till now I couldn't come along wit the right technique to approach this problem. See the last status here: https://carvings.sergiolunansky.nl/#!album-16-23
Thanks in advance an the best of wishes for you and your family in this holidays.
With kind regards
Sergio
Hi Sergio,
Yes, these little "grapes" or "beads" can go rolling across the floor pretty easily. Here would be the best way to tackle these:
Step 1, remove the area around the bead with a v-chisel.
Step 2, with about a #7, 6mm (depending on the size of the bead) going with the grain, make a cut rounding over one side - starting from the middle of the bead.
Step 3, round over the other side of the bead.
NOTE: Make sure these cuts do NOT go vertical or undercut. Make these cuts where all pressure is going AWAY from the bead. The danger of losing these happens when the pressure of these cuts cause that small amount of wood to shift. So, whatever cuts you make, always make sure that it slightly leans away from the bead.
Now, the next difficulty is when you start to detail the area around the beads - just be careful not to let any tools hit the beads too hard.
Hi Mary,
If this is covered elsewhere feel free to redirect me.
What do you use to finish a piece to get rid of facets, bumps, stray bits etc. and make the carving smooth?
Sandpaper? Scrapers? Files? Or is it all to be done from the chisel?
Thank you.
Michael
I really try not to use anything other than the gouges. Sometimes the tool marks give the carving a little more life and movement. But when I need to really remove all tool facets (and this really depends on the customer as to how smooth they are wanting it), I tend to use sandpaper, as I have not really mastered the technique of using scrapers. I also use small riffler files for tight areas. I try to get it as smooth as possible right from the gouge, and if it needs to be smoother, then I use fine sandpaper (220 to 320 grit). If you must use sandpaper, be careful not to sand so much that the sharp details of the carving get softened. Also, make sure you do not carve on your piece after sanding because the grit left from the sandpaper can dull you gouges very quickly. I would not recommend using the "50 grit gouge". 🙂
I just acquired an old Addis #32 1/4" forward bent spoon gouge.The sides are much higher than the tool in your excellent video, some what like a #11. Any special advise on sharpening it, or do I just need to roll my wrist more to do it? The bottom seems kind of flat. Is that the edge I rock to? Thanks for your help.
Congratulations on your new tool! I'm jealous!
Yes, the technique is just to twist your wrist more so that the complete edge of the tool hits the stone. While you are sharpening, try to look at the edge of the tool (might even help to have someone standing across the bench from you to make sure the edge of the tool makes contact with the stone the whole way) and if the edge does not hit the tool, simply adjust the angle. Make sure you do the "C" motion or the whole edge will not be sharpened - only the corners will be.
Well, you have chosen 4 of some of the hardest woods, but of the 4, I would work on walnut first. Next I would try cherry and then Oak. I am not very familiar with chestnut, but think it might be comparable to oak.
Please post a photo on the student gallery - go to the top menu and go to the far left side under "school home". You can add a photo there. If you have any problems, let me know.
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