I would be curious to hear what you use veiners for? It seems like a softer version of a v tool for and good for low relief heraldry carvings. Despite the fact that they are a pain to sharpen they seem like a useful tool.
It seems that in the evolution of carving career, my 1mm veiner sits on the shelf getting dusty a lot more than it used to. I tend to use the v-chisel where I would have used a veiner before. The difficulty of sharpening it certainly contributes to this. I use the 3mm veiner more often because of it's use in acanthus leaf carving (carving on each side of the "pipe" to give the appearance of it raising) and also carving out the "eye" where it shows as a hole in the leaf. No other gouge makes this cut as nicely.
The 1mm veiner is truly the ultimate gouge to make really nice vein lines on traditional acanthus leaves (thus called the veiner). But, as I mentioned earlier, the v-chisel can make similar cuts. The one thing that is nice about making these cuts with a veiner is that the base of the cut is rounded and the walls of the cut are straight, while with the v-chisel, the walls are at an angle. Is there truly a difference when you get down to tiny little cuts like this? Very minimal.
Also, the 3mm veiner makes some very nice cuts down these acanthus leaves as alternative texture lines, so they aren't all the same.
Anything larger than a 3mm, I have rarely used. I'm sure if I were to carve larger leaves, these would make some nice groove lines in the leaves, but these are getting very dusty on my shelf.
Thanks Shannon. Maybe I'll venture into a tour of the next section of my workshop. Since I have several students coming to my shop next week, that might be a good time to clean - and film!
Oh, yeah, quick question - what is it about that last V chisel you used that is so special, aside from its extreme sharpness? Is it a different angle, is the bottom 'mini-gouge' part more of a sharp V, or are the 'wings' swept a bit forward or backward? Would love to know more.
Well, I guess there is no doubt that it is sharp enough - simply because I use it very rarely (only for those special little cuts). The angle is no different, however, it has a slightly sharper point - not as rounded as some. But the main reason is that when I cut tiny little cuts across the grain, I just want to be sure the wood won't break apart. If I use the v-chisel that I had used to carve the rest of the shell, I would just need to make sure it is re-sharpened before I attempt these cuts. Laziness, maybe?
Wow. Just wow. I watched all the chapters in one sitting, and you are very impressive! Your stamina, and then your patience, really shine through, showing your experience, of course. It will be a while, I think, before I attempt such a thing, but I feel I have learned a lot watching you go through this process. Not least of which is the fact that I need more tools! As you say, though, you can never have enough! Beautiful work, Mary. Next time you look in the mirror, remind yourself that you should be damned proud of yourself, both for your accomplishments, and for the idea that you can teach so well. Thank you.
From Bob Easton on Workshop Tour - Beginner Lesson #16
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 10:25 am
From Mary May on Workshop Tour - Beginner Lesson #16
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 10:21 pm
From Shannon Rogers on Sharpening a Veiner Gouge
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 9:08 am
From Mary May on Sharpening a Veiner Gouge
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 10:18 pm
From Shannon Rogers on Workshop Tour - Beginner Lesson #16
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 9:02 am
From Mary May on Workshop Tour - Beginner Lesson #16
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 10:06 pm
From David Taylor on Carving the Convex Newport Shell - Episode 1
Go to comment2012/12/03 at 11:30 pm
From Mary May on Carving the Convex Newport Shell - Episode 1
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 10:05 pm
From David Taylor on Carving the Convex Newport Shell - Episode 1
Go to comment2012/12/03 at 11:26 pm
From Mary May on Carving the Convex Newport Shell - Episode 1
Go to comment2012/12/04 at 10:01 pm