Horse Hide for Stroping?
Quote from Michael Doto on February 7, 2018, 1:16 pmI was shopping online for a larger piece of leather to makes some strops with. So I began clicking on links and came across several sites discussing the pros and cons of soft vs hard leather. I came away with idea that softer leather can unintentionally create a convex angle, while a hard leather will keep the edge “straight.”
My plan was to just oil the leather use the aluminum oxide on it. Now I’m wondering I should buy the horse hide leather instead. What would you suggest? I have no experience with sharpening, and would prefer to develop my methodology the best way possible and have to change it later.
Thank you in advance,
Michael
I was shopping online for a larger piece of leather to makes some strops with. So I began clicking on links and came across several sites discussing the pros and cons of soft vs hard leather. I came away with idea that softer leather can unintentionally create a convex angle, while a hard leather will keep the edge “straight.”
My plan was to just oil the leather use the aluminum oxide on it. Now I’m wondering I should buy the horse hide leather instead. What would you suggest? I have no experience with sharpening, and would prefer to develop my methodology the best way possible and have to change it later.
Thank you in advance,
Michael
Quote from Matthew Mizner on February 7, 2018, 7:38 pmMichael,
I bought a bag of thick leather scraps from the art/craft store. It works great and I’ve been using it for almost 2 years now. Only cost $10 and you can glue it to a thin board. The board will help keep the leather from rounding over your edge to a certain extent. Can be any kind of leather...just stay away from the pebble grain type.
Michael,
I bought a bag of thick leather scraps from the art/craft store. It works great and I’ve been using it for almost 2 years now. Only cost $10 and you can glue it to a thin board. The board will help keep the leather from rounding over your edge to a certain extent. Can be any kind of leather...just stay away from the pebble grain type.
Quote from SmokyRick Crawford on February 8, 2018, 9:06 amI happen to have a bunch of old leather squares. They are about 8-10 inches across and I probably have about 150 of them. They are very thin, but as Matthew says, I just glue part of one to a board and charge it with the compound. The glue and board keep it stiffer than a thicker strap would by itself, and it still works well.
I happen to have a bunch of old leather squares. They are about 8-10 inches across and I probably have about 150 of them. They are very thin, but as Matthew says, I just glue part of one to a board and charge it with the compound. The glue and board keep it stiffer than a thicker strap would by itself, and it still works well.
Quote from MaryMay on February 13, 2018, 8:14 amHi Michael,
Whether a piece of leather is hard or soft, I believe it will eventually slightly "round" the bevel if it is used a lot (maybe without putting it to a stone for several months). There is still enough flex in hard leather to affect the shape. So I wouldn't be too concerned about whether it is soft or hard leather, or what side of the leather is used. I've seen strops in every shape, size, thickness, etc and they all work to polish the edge. Any leather strop that is used excessively will eventually alter the shape of the gouges, but in such minor ways, that it's not really necessary to be too concerned.
So my recommendation - relax, enjoy the carving, and just make sure your tools are sharp!
Hi Michael,
Whether a piece of leather is hard or soft, I believe it will eventually slightly "round" the bevel if it is used a lot (maybe without putting it to a stone for several months). There is still enough flex in hard leather to affect the shape. So I wouldn't be too concerned about whether it is soft or hard leather, or what side of the leather is used. I've seen strops in every shape, size, thickness, etc and they all work to polish the edge. Any leather strop that is used excessively will eventually alter the shape of the gouges, but in such minor ways, that it's not really necessary to be too concerned.
So my recommendation - relax, enjoy the carving, and just make sure your tools are sharp!
Quote from Michael Doto on February 15, 2018, 2:05 pmThank you all for your comments and suggestions. I think Mary nailed it—I need to relax and stop overthinking things. I’ll start my day next week a doughnut and coffee. I’m hoping to finish this week with sharpening my tools. Thank you all again!!!
Michael
Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. I think Mary nailed it—I need to relax and stop overthinking things. I’ll start my day next week a doughnut and coffee. I’m hoping to finish this week with sharpening my tools. Thank you all again!!!
Michael
Quote from Michael Evans on November 11, 2018, 8:01 pmWe do tend to get obsessive about all things woodworking and the reality is that there is at least three different ways to do just about everything. When all else fails try something and see if it works for you. Speaking of strops, I have often just use a piece of MDF or hard maple charged with honing compound and didn't worry at all about including a piece of leather. an advantage is that those can be shaped with carving tools for different profiles. Perhaps Mary could give her opinion on using these for strops.
We do tend to get obsessive about all things woodworking and the reality is that there is at least three different ways to do just about everything. When all else fails try something and see if it works for you. Speaking of strops, I have often just use a piece of MDF or hard maple charged with honing compound and didn't worry at all about including a piece of leather. an advantage is that those can be shaped with carving tools for different profiles. Perhaps Mary could give her opinion on using these for strops.